Delhi

11 April - 17 April 2019

From what I was reading, and what I was told, I needed to get out of Delhi as soon as possible.  So, because I disregard most people's opinions, and the internet is just soo full of good advice, I booked a week there.  Oh, what a mistake... I should have booked two!  

India War Memorial

Perhaps people are looking for different things in a city.  I understand travelers get their kicks in different ways.  You know, a relationship is a two-way street, and maybe they weren't on the same journey.  Delhi and I, however, just synced.  

Lodi Gardens

I expected Delhi to be rough, dirty, packed with millions of people, pollution, full of street kids, and imagined walking, ankle-deep, in questionable water flowing everywhere - really, the more-hardcore, ugly brother of Ko-san road in Bangkok - just with more cows.

Trying to cross Delhi traffic makes
crossing the M1 look like child's play

Maybe because I was preparing for the worst, or coming from Jo'burg lowered my expectations, compared to my first-world compatriots, but I found Delhi to be just a city.  There was traffic at traffic time, there were a couple homeless people and stray dogs, but not too many that you had to walk over them (though, really, one should avoid this practice as much as one can in all circumstances), and there were buildings, apartments, and stores.  

Found them!!

Ryan: "I shouldn't drink the water
Indian friend: "You'll be fine"
Ryan: "Oki doki"

It though still had its charm.  Nestled between blocks are markets.  These markets sell everything from food and linen, clothing and electronics, to trinkets and jewelry, pots and pans.  The food stands didn't look any worse than I have seen street vendors look in other countries, and some food was even sold in stores.  The smells were tantalising and the look and feel of the place engrossing.  Granted, it took me two days to build in the courage to eat from one, but I did, and am alive to tell the tale, and ate from there every day from there on (because it was sooo good).

Delhi also has a comprehensive, AIR CONDITIONED, metro.  Even if you are not using it to get to your next destination, ride the train for 20 minutes to get out of the heat.  Summer is Delhi is really hot.  They also offer a 150 rupee tourist ticket, which gives you unlimited access for the day.  

All tourist routes are close (about 10 minute walk) from a metro station, so I recommend this as the ideal way to see Delhi.  Tuk tuk drivers will scam you no end, and tell you that they only need 100 rupees more to complete their savings for their sick daughter's kidney operation, if you can just take the 5km journey to the next site (liars, it was only 2km).  It's fast, you get to feel like a local, and did I mention its air-conditioned!

In terms of sights, they have some epic ones.  Because I had a week, I did not feel rushed to do them all in one day, and maybe this helped.  Taking them at my leisure, walking instead of being driven around, eating at the side carts, and stopping in one of the parks for a rest in between did add to the experience.  

The streets adjacent
to the high courts

The streets of the high court are lined with massive trees, that give walkers shade, and that leads to India Gate, the war memorial, and the street to parliament.  By far my highlight was Lodi Gardens.  A massive garden in the middle of the city, was breathtaking and beautiful.  Fancy a bonsai section?  How about a few tombs?  Rose garden?  Just remember to bring your 2 rupees, to fill your water bottle (and take a water bottle everywhere, it's hot).  

Lodi Gardens

Lunch in the park

I didn't spend the full week in Delhi, because of a sneaky weekend trip to Jaipur (see next post), so I could not get to every tourist spot I wanted.  I had one day left and was going to see the red fort and Old Delhi, but was recommended to go see Swaminarayan Aksharam.  Not one that pops up on the tourist sites, but boy what a place.  On the one hand I hope it doesn't, to keep it a little gem of a secret, but on the other, I want to tell everyone to see it.  It's awesome.  Also, you cannot take pictures inside, so you just going to have to experience it for yourself.  But beautiful gardens, a history of Indian culture and achievements, a massive, intricately-carved temple, all centred around the Bhagwan Swaminarayan.

Delhi does have a dark side - so dark - all vehicles are equipped with hooters (rest of the world says horns).  Now, vehicles back home have these too, but they serve a different use here.  The noise is deafening (like wear ear plugs, its loud and sucks) and while in other countries people upgrade their mag wheels, get lights under the car, put a fin on the boot, or a little disco ball on the rear view mirror, Delhites' only concern is pumping up their hooter volume to kill mode, some bus and lorry drivers have even got bored of the tune and changed theirs up a bit.  

The hooter usually universally means watch out, or you've done something wrong.  In Delhi it means so much more.  Granted, I have only been there for a few days, but depending on context, I figured it could be used to mean:

1. Hey, you cut me off.

2. Chine, I have a car.

3. Boy, there is a space here.  Would you like to join this lane?

4. Mate, I have a bike.

5. Sir, where did you come from.  I did not see you.

6.  Look I have a horn.

7.  Cool bru, I have a horn too.

8.  Lekker man, let us toot our horns together.

9. Brother, did you see that?

10. Oh damn kid, I did see that, we should tell Dave.

11. Dave, did you check that just now?

12. Hello, I'm not Dave, but look at my horn, hear me roar!

Also, the vendors try scam you.  I was charged 60 rupees for a single banana, when three cost 10.  I knew this was a scam, so went to the grocery store and paid 30 for three (showed them).  

All in all though, it was a city I thoroughly enjoyed.  Maybe it was because I met some awesome people, maybe because it was my first city on my holiday #sabbatical, or maybe I love parks (they have lots of parks).  Perhaps 10 years ago, Delhi was more a ruffian, but it seems to have all grown up and turned into a fine kid.