18 April - 19 April 2019
Having arrived in Rishikesh and been truely and wholly disappointed, coupled with some poor initial experiences, Rishikesh had a lot of making up to do.
What it lacked in beauty, tranquility, and serenity, it did have certain (small, tiny, baby) pockets of charm. The town is charmingly-littered with shops, and there are a few jems hiding in the hot mess. I spent my first afternoon at a small restaurant that overlooks the Ganges.
Having arrived in Rishikesh and been truely and wholly disappointed, coupled with some poor initial experiences, Rishikesh had a lot of making up to do.
What it lacked in beauty, tranquility, and serenity, it did have certain (small, tiny, baby) pockets of charm. The town is charmingly-littered with shops, and there are a few jems hiding in the hot mess. I spent my first afternoon at a small restaurant that overlooks the Ganges.
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| The Ganga (Ganges) by afternoon |
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| Shambalas, Rishikesh Check this place out when you there (but don't go there, Rishikesh is gross) |
Shambalas has a small entrance, on that can be easily missed (like all great finds are), but I was looking specifically for the place, based on a recommendation from friends I had met in Delhi. They told me it was next to the Beatles Cafe, also good, but this was much better. A great call. Good food, sipping away on a few honey, lemon, ginger teas, overlooking the great, holy Ganga river went some way to calming my soul from the chaos that awaited outside (and kept me staying here long).
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| Luxman Jhulla Bridge, Rushikesh |
I decided to walk up to my hostel and found a place still open just around the corner - Free Spirit Cafe. Needing supper, I walked in. So happy I did, as it was another Bohemian-styled cafe. I was met by a patron handing out flyers for a party the next night, and after seeing that the place was full, with no spare tables, I asked if I could join her, at hers. She welcomed me, and introduced me to her two other friends. We started chatting, and after a few juices (remember, no alcohol), ending up having a really good chat, and dinner.
Retiring for the night, I concluded that there may be a chance that this may not suck too much (queue hooter sounds outside). Grrrrr.
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| Free Spirit Cafe, Rishikesh Good chips, and damn they can make a spinach omlette |
It was a great, hot day to do some sunbathing, and sunbath I did. However, what better after a sun sesh, than a cool off sesh. But this was the Ganges. Oh, I have read stories of it being more dirty than the inside of a hippies dreadlocks, or an Ellis Park bathroom stall; full of half-charred bodies, sewage and muck. But it didn't look so bad - blue-ish, it was also really hot, and I saw two other tourists doing it. A quick Google, and after finding one article that said that it was ok up here, I was in. Oh lordy, what a life choice. The fresh snow melted water instantly cooled my sun wary body.
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| Post-Ganga swim (Update - not dead as a result) |
At the beach I met up with the other people, and after getting to chatting, ended up sharing a lunch with them. They would prove, not only to be great and interesting people, but the directors of the next step of my journey. They too agreed with my disappointment of Rishikesh (one had been there 6 years before and could not believe how it had changed), and told me about an amazing Ashram they had just come from, which they thought would be exactly what I was looking for.
Considering my long-standing friendship with this group, and my long-standing despisal for my present location, it seemed like a good idea. Also, I was checking out the next day, and had not found other accommodation.
Funny how things worked out. I guess I had to endure Rishikesh to find out about the Ashram. I called, and they had space. All in all, met some really cool people, found some cool spots, and swam in the Ganges (let's see how that one turns out). Onwards and upwards.
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