Saturday, May 25, 2019

Ashramming part 2

still 21-28 April 2019

I was packing up my things, to move onto the next part of my journey, and I could not believe that I had spent a week in an ashram, and enjoyed it.  Nay, I had loved it – like a fine wine – except wine is gross – so more like a bubblegum milkshake.  It was only now when I truly understood what people meant when they say being in an Ashram is like being in a bubblegum milkshake.

Hmmmm, milkshakes
Staying at an ashram was a concept I was toying with when planning my trip, but not something I found particularly appealing.  I was not sure how finding inner peace could be much fun.  Really, and I know this will get the whole liberal community up in arms (but really, what are those hippies going to do about it – stop eating vegetables?), the whole idea of sitting around and meditating sounded quite boring.

Pathways in Aurovalley Ashram

Yet, here I was, packing up and feeling an intense regret for leaving and wishing I could have spent more time here.  The whole place really just works well, in a sense that it is built to allow the maximum creation of peacefulness, quiet, and tranquility.  This sets the environment for one being able to contemplate, learn, and really relax.

It is here that I learnt that feeling relaxed is not doing nothing, but just to be peaceful and still, in one's self.  Unencumbered.  One is relaxed when, even while being busy or active, one stills feels full of energy (how good a word was unencumbered back just now - flip, nice Ryan).     


Mornings started, according to the daily schedule, with meditation.  Now, as none of you are here, I could lie and say that I am so good at meditation.  I could lie, and say I bring to meditation what Victor Matfield brought to lineouts (or flowing beards and hair).  I could bend the truth and say that in the hour, I sat from the first minute, cleared my head of all thoughts, and just was, for that whole time.  I would even be able to get away with saying that I didn’t open my eyes every few minutes to check the time, to kill a mosquito, to adjust my legs, or that I started thinking, a lot, about weird things.  I maybe would even leave out that I left after 45 minutes most times.  Look, I’m not perfect, so - I was flipping awesome at meditation.  I do meditation better than anyone.  I am so good at India.

Walking out of another awesome, inspiring meditation session.
I think I levitated in this one, cant remember,
cause they were all so brilliant, and I am so good at meditating
I did though, in truth, come to some really cool realisations, and sitting and trying not to think, does help, think.

My favourite part of the day was Yoga, and is by far, barring my inflexibility, something I will try more of.  I think our teacher was the reason for me finding it so enjoyable.  She probably picked up the group’s limited skill and experience quite quickly, and provided classes that we could (at most times) cope with comfortably.  We also did a yoga session in the Ganga one morning (the ashram is a five minute walk from the river – an opportunity I exploited far too seldomly), although that was mostly splashing about in the river (whose fun level is quite underestimated).  However, the highlight of yoga was the teacher's guided meditations.


Very hard yoga positions.
Can only be done in the Ganga,
and by very experienced Yogis

Standing, group mango orchard pose.
Pretty much top three hardest
group river yoga poses











Despite my absolute smashing of normal meditation sessions (see above for how fantastic I am at meditation – probably the best), I could not compete with her sessions.  Her calm voice, and pace at which she took us through the session, were spot on.  Whether I felt like I was sinking into the ground, or watching myself from above, she could take us on a journey that felt like hours, but was in reality only 5 or 10 minutes.  Daily, I would walk out of the yoga sessions, relaxed, refreshed, and with a big smile.

Next up on the schedule was breakfast, and meal times were almost as exciting as yoga.  The food at the ashram was exemplary.  Tasty, big portions, varied, and all vegetarian.  There is little more to say that I wish I could keep the experience and tastes tangible, but am saddened that it will only be a memory.


Delicious vegetarian food,
Aurovalley Ashram 
Note the empty places,
because of too much awesome vegetarian food
from the previous meal,
Aurovalley Ashram







Hmm, vegetarian food,
Aurovalley Ashram
After breakfast came Karma Yoga.  This is a term used for where the volunteers spend time helping around the ashram, with whatever tasks are needed.  During the week, I helped with weeding (de-weeding? – I helped with taking weeds out, not putting them in); splitting pea pods, and sweeping leaves.  Being outside, even in 30+ degrees, was really enjoyable – far better than being in any meeting room.


Raking leave like a boss,
Karma Yoga in Aurovalley Ashram
Pea splitting station,
Karma Yoga in Aurovalley Ashram
Splitting peas like a boss,
Karma Yoga in Aurovalley Ashram

The last morning activity was satsang, which comprised of Q&A with the swami.  Nothing changed (as mentioned in my previous post), with this being the worst part of the day.  An hour was scheduled, but questions given were only about 5 minutes, and answers provided were only about 20 minutes, and not particularly inspiring, or insightful.  A lot of time was spent staring.  Staring at the shwami.  Staring at the floor.  Staring at one another.  Staring at the door.  We’d stare at the bookshelves, we’d stare at the ceiling.  All in all in was a pretty awkward feeling (#DrSuessmuch).

The gun factory
The meal bell (yes an actual bell – ashrams are awesome) saved us, and as aforementioned, meals are fantastic.  The rest of your afternoon is yours, and this was spent napping; reading; once walking an hour into town in 40 degrees to find an ATM and being unsuccessful; smashing my guns at an outdoor gym, etc. 







The evening program starts at 6pm, for another hour of meditation (which I didn’t stress about at all - because stressing doesn’t help meditation - thank goodness I’m so good at meditation), dinner, and then a communal reading session at the library, where each member of the ashram reads a page out of the Mother’s diary – I should probably give you more context about this, but myeh.  Save to say she (and Sri Aribindo) is the inspiration and guiding voice of the ashram and the Aurovalley / Auroville movements.  Do some of your own damn research.

'The Great Adventure', the Mother's Diary




Sunday, May 19, 2019

Arriving at an Ashram


21-28 April 2019

I had no expectations going into the Aurovalley Ashram, especially coming from Rishikesh, and seeing how commercialised these sorts of experiences had become.  However, I was arriving on the back of a recommendation (granted from people I had known no more than 3 hours), so I figured, in the least, it could not be worse than Rishikesh. 

From my conversation with an Indian, who was up from Delhi, the night before I knew I had to catch a tuk tuk to the ashram, and that it shouldn’t cost me more than 70 rupees.  Considering the arbitrariness at how these drivers arrive at their prices, and also that I was guaranteed to be overcharged on account of being a tourist, I was primed to enter the negotiations for a price with a realistic range to work with.

Smiley face:
screwed by another tuk tuk driver,
a past time I was getting used to in India
Well, the first driver said 700 rupees.  I knew then I was either following some poor advice, or being seriously bent over.  After 5 minutes of my best attempt to justify 70 rupees, I was beginning to understand that this was far too low a base.  Another driver though had perhaps realised that I was not to be taken for a fool, so easily, or (had probably) just taken pity on my sad excuse for an attempt to haggle, and offered me to take me for 450.  His justification was that it was actually out of the town, and not the normal route.  I knew it was an hour drive at least, and had had enough "fun" playing 'Guess the actual price of this thing', and mostly because I had little other options, I accepted that I was still being taken for a ride (lol, intended pun), but I was happy with claiming the (very) small victory.

The drive was indeed far longer than expected, and about 15 minutes out of Raiwalla, so even though we picked up a few passengers along the way (an express tuk tuk takes you directly and costs more, if you take passengers along the way, it should cost far less – something I remembered only after we picked up our first passenger – and probably would have been useful to mention in my earlier negotiations), I felt the agreed price reasonable – well at least, that is how I justified it to myself.

Arriving at Aurovalley, I knew I had made the right decision to leave Rishikesh.  You could immediately get a sense of the peace and tranquillity of the place.  There was no noise to speak of, and a large open courtyard (with no vendors, scooters, or people trying to sell you something).  To the left was a large grove filled with mango trees, adjacent to the yoga hall and library.  I was told, by the lady I found at reception, that the mediation house was just behind that. 

Library, Aurovalley Ashram
Courtyard, Aurovalley
Ashram

Aurovalley Ashram

Mango grove (mango orchard?),
Aurovalley Ashram















Daily schedule attached to my key
(so I could lose both at the same time)
I was shown to my room, and given a key, which contained the daily schedule.  It was just after 11am, and 11:30 was satsang – ashram-speak for Q&A with the swami.  I quickly surveyed the room – which to my delight was a private room, with two singe beds, and an adjoining, private bathroom.  What a delight, even if I was sharing with one other person, this was a long way from the 6-bunk bed dormitories I had experienced until now, and would continue to in the future.  I was looking forward to this small luxury.


Satsang was in the library.  Walking in, one enters a large, circular room, with high-ceilings and poof cushions on the floor, arranged in a circle.  The guests sit on the floor, and the swami sits at the top of the circle, on a chair.   Very few questions were asked, and of those asked, the answers provided with quite cryptic.  However, most of the hour was spent in silence, waiting for more questions, although these never came.  I was to learn that this would be the standard practise for this session – and very quickly became my least favourite part of the day.  I would come to use this time to work on my posture and sitting upright, while cross-legged.
Private room,
Aurovalley Ashram


View from my room,
Aurovalley Ashram
Meditation hall, Aurovalley Ashram











Next was lunch, and what soon came to be a time I looked forward to each day.  The meals at the ashram were incredible.  These established, and entrenched, my love for real, genuine Indian food.  As everything was vegetarian, I had no problem trying everything, and I was sure glad to - what was the worst it could be?  Oh, no a cauliflower.  Each meal I had at the ashram was incredible.  I had no problem eating curry for 3 meals a day, and I do not think in the week I was there I ate the same meal more than twice.  The variety, taste, and portions were all so good – I actually had to ask for less food, or begin choosing what to eat – because there was just too much – as well as that all meals consisted of the real staples of any healthy (Indian) meal: rice, potatoes and a roti/chipati (sugar, salt, and oil are obviously considered automatically included).  I however ate my fill, as I felt I would not eat this well in the future (and had not done up till now).

Lunch ended at about 1:30pm and there is free time till 6pm.  So, I thought, why not go for an afternoon nap.  You deserve it Ryan.  So far, ashramming seemed to be something I could get very used to, as I dosed off for the afternoon.  

Monday, May 13, 2019

48 hours of hell in Rishikesh, although it wasn't actually too bad

18 April - 19 April 2019

Having arrived in Rishikesh and been truely and wholly disappointed, coupled with some poor initial experiences, Rishikesh had a lot of making up to do.

What it lacked in beauty, tranquility, and serenity, it did have certain (small, tiny, baby) pockets of charm.  The town is charmingly-littered with shops, and there are a few jems hiding in the hot mess.  I spent my first afternoon at a small restaurant that overlooks the Ganges.


The Ganga (Ganges) by
afternoon








Shambalas, Rishikesh
Check this place out when you there
(but don't go there, Rishikesh is gross)





Shambalas has a small entrance, on that can be easily missed (like all great finds are), but I was looking specifically for the place, based on a recommendation from friends I had met in Delhi.  They told me it was next to the Beatles Cafe, also good, but this was much better.  A great call.  Good food, sipping away on a few honey, lemon, ginger teas, overlooking the great, holy Ganga river went some way to calming my soul from the chaos that awaited outside (and kept me staying here long).








Day turned to night, and this was spent walking the streets of the city, trying cafe after cafe, seeing if there was another Shambalas to relax in (it could have easily been bar after bar, but alcohol is not sold in Rishikesh - maybe they should look into it - the place is too quiet).  Nothing going.

Luxman Jhulla Bridge, Rushikesh

I decided to walk up to my hostel and found a place still open just around the corner - Free Spirit Cafe.  Needing supper, I walked in.  So happy I did, as it was another Bohemian-styled cafe.  I was met by a patron handing out flyers for a party the next night, and after seeing that the place was full, with no spare tables, I asked if I could join her, at hers.  She welcomed me, and introduced me to her two other friends.  We started chatting, and after a few juices (remember, no alcohol), ending up having a really good chat, and dinner.    

Retiring for the night, I concluded that there may be a chance that this may not suck too much (queue hooter sounds outside).  Grrrrr.

Free Spirit Cafe, Rishikesh
Good chips, and damn they can
make a spinach omlette
Having found my bearings the previous day, it was straight to Free Spirit for breakfast.  Let me tell you, its been a long time since I've had an omlette as good as this.  Good start to the day.  My new friends from the previous evening suggested hitting up the beach just outside the town.  You didn't need to give me a second reason to get out, so after breakfast, hiked about 10 minutes outside of town to a beach on the river.  






It was a great, hot day to do some sunbathing, and sunbath I did.  However, what better after a sun sesh, than a cool off sesh.  But this was the Ganges.   Oh, I have read stories of it being more dirty than the inside of a hippies dreadlocks, or an Ellis Park bathroom stall; full of half-charred bodies, sewage and muck.  But it didn't look so bad - blue-ish, it was also really hot, and I saw two other tourists doing it.  A quick Google, and after finding one article that said that it was ok up here, I was in.  Oh lordy, what a life choice.  The fresh snow melted water instantly cooled my sun wary body.

Post-Ganga swim
(Update - not dead as a result)

At the beach I met up with the other people, and after getting to chatting, ended up sharing a lunch with them.  They would prove, not only to be great and interesting people, but the directors of the next step of my journey.  They too agreed with my disappointment of Rishikesh (one had been there 6 years before and could not believe how it had changed), and told me about an amazing Ashram they had just come from, which they thought would be exactly what I was looking for.



Considering my long-standing friendship with this group, and my long-standing despisal for my present location, it seemed like a good idea.  Also, I was checking out the next day, and had not found other accommodation.

Funny how things worked out.  I guess I had to endure Rishikesh to find out about the Ashram.  I called, and they had space.  All in all, met some really cool people, found some cool spots, and swam in the Ganges (let's see how that one turns out).  Onwards and upwards.   

Rishikesh: a hole

18 April 2019

The centre of yoga and mediation in the world; and a place of tranquility, beauty, peace, and serenity, describes Rishikesh in absolutely no way whatsoever!

What I can imagine once being a little hamlet, with ashrams and homestays dotted around the countryside, all overlooking the imposing, grand Ganga (Ganges) river, has today become an overpopulated, dirty, touristy obnoxious town selling a bastardised, commercial product to the thousands of western and local tourists that come to visit.

Aggressive much Ryan?  Perhaps it worth taking a step back, and providing some context on how I came to such strong feelings that Rishikesh has become to yoga and meditation, to what I imagine Sodom and Gemora was for after-school care.  

It is also perhaps a case of naivety on my behalf.  Why would a place, so popular on the backpacker trail for so long, be anything but.  I think my anger comes from what it pretends to be, and what it actually is.  Ko San Road in Bangkok is no picnic, but it doesn't pretend to be a nunnery, and therefore you know what you are getting yourself into.  If you get felt up by a lady boy, you cant be unhappy, because that is what you signed up for boy (or girl, or in the middle).

My pick up point for my bus
(not a bus station)

I arrived in Rishikesh at 6am, after an 7 hour overnight bus from Delhi.  Tired and hazy, I tried to find my hostel - whose address is posted as 'near the bunjy jump place' (I am paraphrasing).  However, I found no backpackers near said stretchy chord facility, only a run down building, a hippie / homeless (who can tell these days) couple, and a stray dog who bit a hole in my pants.  The hippies did not know where the backpackers were, the dog wasn't being much help, and nothing else was really open, so without any more sense of direction I began wondering around.  Eventually I happened across the establishment by chance, and went inside.  




#customerservice
Inside, the reception desk was unattended, but there was a man sleeping on the couch beside it.  It was 7am (an hour after being dropped off), so one could excuse his liberal interpretation of a "24/7 helpdesk".  I understandingly proceeded to gently wake him up.  However, Mr Man was in no mood to wake up and brushed aside my polite prods and turned over.  More vigorous shaking awoke the man, yet his scoff and contemptuous dismissal showed me that he was in no mood to earn the 5-star rating I was intending on providing this fine place.






Unwilling to beg to be assisted, I found an open room, put down my things and proceeded to wait... passively-aggressively.  When 7am become 9am, and Mr Man was still sleeping, I decided to get some breakfast.  The town, and Rishikesh's true personality, had now awoken.  The symbol left in my mind of Rishikesh is not a yogi standing on one leg on a rocky outcrop, or of floating shamen, but rather etched into my memory is the piercing sound of car, motorcycle, and scooter horns all battling for supremacy in the worst concerto any person can be forced to listen to. Nama-stay.



Hooting is not uncommon in India, even excessively so, but really this is not what one would expect in a town where one is trying to align ones chakras.  However, its narrow streets are not designed for cars, or to be shared with motorcycles and pedestrians, let alone what is a two-lane highway, and the incessant noise is only amplified by the gross amount of traffic and these vehicles' total disregard and impatience for those walking.  Very peaceful.


Add to this that you are constantly being sold some river rafting trip.  There are signs everywhere, each professing to offer the of the most authentic yoga course, and the town is sprawling with vendors, construction, and dilapidated buildings.  I simply cannot understand how it can pretend to be offer anything aligned to virtues of yoga, medication, peace or tranquility.  I am at one with the world.

Actual poster on the wall of the hostel
#inspired
After breakfast, I went back to the hostel, where Mr Man was still sleeping.  I was eventually checked-in, when he decided to wake up at 11 am - though I was ready to check out immediately.  At least, I thought, I only booked two nights.   

A sneaky weekend trip to Jaipur

12 April - 14 April 2019

It's 10 o'clock on a Friday night, and the hostel owners asks:

Hostel owner: "Do you want to go to Jaipur?
Me:                 "Sure, when?
Hostel owner: "At 12", he calmly replies.
Me:                  "Huh?" Ok, well I am on holiday.  I think, why not, seeing we leaving so late, must be close. 
Me:                  "How many kilometres?
Hostel owner: "Only about 300", he mentions calmly.
Me:                  "Chilled, we'll be there in less than 3 hours"
Hostel owner: "Lol (he did not say lol, he laughed, because he is a person), should take between 5-6 hours. 
Me:                  "Oh, gosh, well I better get packing then."

There is a bit of dramatic paraphrasing there, but it pretty much went like that.  Kinda.

There I was, driving with a person I had known for less than 48 hours, in the middle of the night, with three other people, going across the country.  Moo would not be happy.  Also, for some context, during the day I asked another person who worked at the hostel why people drive so badly in Delhi.  He explained that most people buy their licenses.  He bought his for 1000 rupees (that's less than R250).

What? Your rooms aren't ready.
It's 5:30am.  Pfft, hostels.
At the back of the car, we all decided to go to sleep, as - we thought - if we were in an accident, at least we would die in a state of calm (granted, he was not a bad driver, Indian roads and driving are just a different beast).  We arrived at our hostel at 5:30am.  Surprisingly, our rooms would only be ready at 1pm.  Consequently, we slept on the couches. 






Breakfast at lunch time.  
After getting up, checking in, having a shower, finding our bearings, we headed out late Saturday afternoon to start seeing Jaipur.  On stepping out and seeing Jaipur, I knew I had made the right call.  Jaipur, nicknamed the pink city, because of the pink local rock used in the architecture (see my blogs are also informative) has some amazing places to see.  Hawa Mahal and City Palace are beautiful.  




View from one of the windows
Entrance to Hawa Mahal
To the central meeting place
of City Palace
Walls of Hawa Mahal
From the central meeting
place of City Palace 

Staring competition at
City Palace


However beautiful the city is in the day, they light up the buildings at night.  We had dinner across the road from Hawa Mahal at a restaurant called the view (or something like that).  A really great setting.

The night ended with a few drinks, one of the girls breaking off her engagement and then having a complete break down, panic attack, and needed to go to hospital, but its not such an interesting story.  Cue night 2 of going to sleep at 5:30am.










Day 2 started very much like day one.  Slept in, and after everyone getting their ducks in a row, we headed out late Sunday afternoon to start finish seeing Jaipur.  The Amber Fort puts the other forts to shame.  Properly magnificent.  Our tour leader / hostel owner also took us to the Royal Gaitor Tumbas.  Tombs of many of the maharajas who ruled Jaipur.  I think another gem off the tourist trail, we were the only people there - save for the Indian couple doing a photo shoot there.


Marble pillars in the minor meeting hall
of Amber fort
Outside view of the minor meeting hall,
Amber Fort

Not sure what this is,
but that's me inside it

Doorways of Amber Fort


Garden outside the mirror hall,
Amber Fort
Mosiacs in the Mirror Hall,
Amber Fort

Exit Gate, Amber Fort
Royal Gaitor Tumbas
Royal Gaitor Tumbas




Royal Gaitor Tumbas












Royal Gaitor Tumbas

Day turned to night and it was time to head home (at about 10pm).  Not a problem, we were due to arrive early (by our standards), by about 3am.  Hindsight is always 20/20, but we really should have not let the girl who had a breakdown the night before drive.  Also, and I'm being nice here, she was a crap driver.  Anyway, we got what we deserved.  She veered off the road, popped two tyres and bent both left tyre rims.  Shmuck.


It's ok, it's just the front tyre

Oh, no, wait.  The shmuck bust
the back one too.


Our hero / tour leader / hostel owner sorted out the problem.  Luckily we had come to a halt across the road (I say road, this was a highway) from a "mechanic" place/effort.  This guy changed the front tyre with the spare.  Bashed the rims back into place, and we were on our way.  We arrived in Delhi after 5am, and got to sleep for the third night in a row after 5:30.  However, I was alive, had an amazing time with a group of now good friends (except the mental breakdown / tyre bursting lady - she wasn't cool anymore), and experienced an amazing city.  You should definitely check it out.  Maybe take a bus though.