My sabbatical: Am I still in India? Yes, but just the nice part.

Kerala 29 October – 27 November

Kerala is known as “India light”, because although it forms part of India, it is so different from the rest of it, it may as well be its own country.

A temple in Alleppey

Literally the only one on the beach.
Kuzhypilly beach, Vypin

A disclaimer first though.

Only once you have traveled India, can you realise just how incredibly vast and massive the place actually is. People commonly refer to India as a continent (obviously people who did not do geography). With over a thousand languages and different dialects being spoken across the country, and myself having only traveled a tiny portion of the north, west, and the south-western coast, I understand I am making broad generalisations. But it's the best place (oh damn, I did it again).

In truth, each region, and each of the 29 states (and 7 union territories - thank you Google) could be classified as countries of their own (although they are not), with different cultures, languages, religions and customs. But, they do all share a familiarity – a common thread that seems to ensure that you know you are still in India. However, from what I have seen, Kerala really is just so, well, un-Indian.

Some places in Kerala do not have roads.
Roads? Myeh. Who needs em.
Alleppey

From the moment I arrived in Kerala, I could feel the pace of life slow. It is still India, so there is a lot going on, but at a more calmer pace. This translates into people seemingly being more approachable and helpful. A local explained to me that because Kerala never was a disputed kingdom (like much of the northern states), and had not been through as many wars and battles, it is a far more timid and placid part of the country, and it is consequently reflected in their culture.

My first meal in Kerala,
in a local restaurant, where no one spoke English.
So ended up with a hot as hell fish curry.
Calicut

Combine this with it being the landing ground for the Portuguese, Dutch, and the Brits, as well as some tolerant and liberal local kings, Kerala has some unique characteristics. It is the only state in India that is ruled by a communist political party. It has the highest levels of literacy and education of any state in India and highest lift expectancy (and other cool things - check this out - https://www.holidify.com/pages/facts-about-kerala-446.html).

No wonder you feel that Kerala is greener, cleaner, and generally easier to get around in, than other places in India. For those wanting to wet their feet, Kerala really is the place to start off before moving into the far more intense north.

The clean, green, empty (for India) streets of Cochin

The capital of Kerala, Cochin, once had a prominent Jewish community, as evidenced by a street in town unashamingly, but affectionately, called “Jew Street”. There is little other evidence of the community there, except two synagogues, one I think you may be able to go inside on your own (although I did not). There is one functioning synagogue in the old Jewish quarter, and on a walking tour through the area, I was taken inside to see how the local influences had been merged with traditional, to form some unique architecture. You are not allowed to take pictures inside, so it is worth a visit, especially to see the unique Chinese tiles that were gifted to it, which cover the floor, and on close inspection you would otherwise miss that each one is subtly unique.

Nuff said.
Jew Street, Cochin

Apparently a synagogue, Cochin

More apt to the local Indian customs, are the iconic (Chinese) fishing nets. The largest nets of its kind, in the world, and a throwback to how fisherman made their living in recent history. These massive, permanent structures need six people to operate, but due to commercial fishing and illegal trawling off the coast (also ironically, and allegedly, by the Chinese), fisherman are finding catches smaller and abandoning local methods that are becoming less and less economically viable.

The fishing nets at sunset.
Cochin

What's all the fuss about?

Oh, two massive blue fin tunas.
Fish action, Cochin

Kerala though was not all smooth sailing (lol, water humour) and my attempt at learning Ayurveda (the ancient medicinal practice of using herbs and food, intimate knowledge of the mind of body, and mindfulness to heal) turned into a 1-hour session of me massaging an oily, naked man (that’s really all I’m prepared to put on the internet about this).

And, although literate and green and clean, it is still India, and one day I tried to explore a small village called (I can't actually remember), so I bought a ticket for the ferry and hopped on. However, about 5km from my destination, the ferry stopped, and everyone, including the driver (captain? I do not think a ferry has a captain?) disembarked. I asked where we were and they said Kainakary (not the place I was looking for). I asked if this was a scheduled stop before "the place I cannot remember", and the destination on my ticket, but they said "Oh, lo" (in my mind), they were only waiting 15 minutes before turning around and heading back to the same place we started.

When there are no roads, the bus stops become ferry stops.
Backwaters of Alleppey

When in Rome (but actually Alleppey).
At this point I actually thought I was going to where my ticket said
(hence the happy face)

School's out.
Inside the local ferry on the backwaters of Alleppey.

Instead of exploring "the place I cannot remember" (but definitely not Kainakary, I think), I therefore saw about 500m of Kainakary, and spent 4 hours on a ferry. Oh, and almost got scammed by someone trying to trade me fake money.

The ferry dock (do ferries have docks?) in Cochin

Houseboats on the backwaters of Alleppey

Our very old boatman who took us on a 6 hour tour around
the backwaters of Alleppey - rowing 6 fat ass tourist himself
#properstrong

In a month, I managed to spend time on Kerala’s beaches and watch amazing sunsets (and wake up for a few sunrises), with the highlight watching some dolphins from a beach café one afternoon. I explored the backwaters of Alleppey and saw how locals live their lives with water as roads, canoes as cars, and ferries as busses. I enjoyed the greenery of the place, and that the price asked was the price you paid (i.e., the local price, no being ripped off or over charged).

Alappuzha beach, Alleppey

With the abundance of water around, they take pride in their fish, and a fish thali is a common, and tasty dish. All in all, I loved the place (and the hostel I stayed at) so much, I ended up volunteering there for 2 weeks.