Bandipur: Finally treated like a VIP

05 October - 06 October

The bus from Pokhara to Kathmandu is long.  Well not that long, about 7 hours, which is still quite long, but not the longest.  Also not the shortest.  I also had a few days left in Nepal before my flight back to India and did not want to spend it in Kathmandu.  So really, what I am trying to say here is that I needed a place to stay, to break up my not so long (but still quite long) journey back from Pokhara, which was on the route to Kathmandu.

Bandipur turned out to be the perfect place.

A quiet, little village perched on top of the Mahabharat range, which was said to have retained its old-world charm through avoiding the temptation, like many of its neighbours, to renovate and update homes and buildings, and now serves as a celebration of its Newari culture.

The main street of Bandipur

It was a good sign when the bus stopped at the top of the hill and no vehicles were allowed to drive through the widened walkways.  The appeal of the town, while bustling, was immediately apparent as many of the old, wooden buildings have been persevered and turned into cafes and guesthouses, spilling onto the boardwalk with its tables and chairs seating partons trying local dishes or the fancier ones sending out smells of good coffee, often so hard to find in Nepal (or so I am told).

Tourism though has indelibly left its mark and many guesthouses were quoting inflated prices for a room.  It did not help that their major annual festival, Dashain, was taking place over this time.  Having arrived without any prior booking, I walked around from place to place looking for a room, either being turned away because of full occupancy or turning away because of way above reasonable prices. 

A religious procession, celebrating Dashain.
Bandipur

My search took me further away from the centre of the town, and as I began to reach its outskirts, I found a willing helper.  He invited me to sit and eat something, while he went to fetch a friend.  After a very decent vegetable chowmein, I was introduced to the man who would be my host.  A local agreed to host me in his house.  I knew I had stumbled upon a great deal, as I was walked to his house.  I had my own room, a great rooftop view, and all meals would be provided.  

I was served some tea and biscuits as I was urged to settle in, and was introduced to his wife and mother who stayed in the house too. 

The rooftop view from my homestay, Bandipur

He explained to me that the highlight of their festival is a football match, that the whole village attends.  He was playing in the veteran army men's team, against a team comprising of some of the other villagers, and invited me to watch.

We were late already, he said, and we hurried up.  It was at this sprightly pace that I got my first glance of the beautiful town and old-style buildings.  While the streets were busy with locals, tourists, shops and inevitably all the townsfolk making their way to the football ground, there was enough of a peaceful atmosphere that made me calm and gave me the feeling I had made a good choice to come here to spend my last few days in Nepal (as opposed to the chaos of Kathmandu).

I walked with him to the main tent that had been set up, where his teammates were waiting for him.  As I was bidding him farewell to find a place on the side lines, he told that I should sit on one of the chairs under the shade of the tent, which was on a raised platform, as I was his guest.  Ah nice.  A football match, with a seat in the shade.  

Soccer from the shade,
Bandipur

I was sorely out of place, firstly as one of the only foreigners in the town, and definitely the only one under the dignitaries tent.  In my backpacking attire, I stood out even more.  They had obviously though seen through the dirty clothes, unshaven face, and unkempt hair, to realise who they were dealing with.  I was treated like one of the VIP guests, and given a water bottle and presented with a silk scarf by two local girls, in traditional dress.

In truth, the football was rubbish, and his game was only a precursor to the younger, club games, where his son actually was one of the stand out players – which proved a great source of pride for him when I pointed this out over dinner (the son bit, not him being rubbish at soccer) later in the evening.

Finally getting the treatment I deserve,
Bandipur

My VIP treatment continued when we got home, and over the two days I stayed there.  I enjoyed overflowing plates of local, home-cooked food, chai on tap, and in the evenings he was proud to show off his local roxi (homemade spirit), and kept on filling my glass with the spirit, in spite of my protests.

I was treated to some coffee made in the local style,
and enough over-sugared chai to give any man Diabetes (but in a nice way),
Bandipur

The mother preparing lunch.
Our kitchen, and dining area.
Bandipur

Outside of football matches and being wined and dined, there is not much to do in the town of Bandipur itself.  However, just outside, lies extensive forest, nature and the ability to explore one of Nepal’s largest cave complexes.  My new, adopted family was very worried about my going to walk to the cave, as they had heard of the path being very treacherous, and did not want any harm to befall me (and so they should not). 

But I am a brave soul, and I feel they may not have actually done the walk themselves, as a very casual hour’s walk from town, through the forest, but on a well-marked path, one arrives at the cave's entrance.  A man lives in the cave (I know, right), and he serves as the guide.  You definitely need him, and appreciate his sacrifice of a hermit life, as the caverns and ladders need an experienced hand to navigate in the dark.

The size of the caverns are impressive, and the tour of the cave is a nice mix of adventure and wonder with traversing the rope and steel ladders.  The only thing I would recommend against is, including an Australian family in your exploration party.  Specifically one with an over-protective mother who did not shut up, and kept on speaking to a guide who spoke basically no English, with a bunch of her kids who were complete whisses (perhaps, in part, due to the over-protective nature of their mother).  Avoid this, and Siddha Gufa is a definitely a great experience.

The forests of Bandipur

Honing self-time skills on the walk down to Siddha caves.
Bandipur

The entrance to Siddha caves,
on the side of a mountain.
Bandipur

Our guide's house.
Siddha caves, Bandipur

My best highlights of Bandipur took place with the cycles of the sun.  Thani mai temple is perched on hill, and a 45 minute steep climb from my homestay.  It overlooks the whole town, and is an ideal place to watch the sun rise and go down every day.  On my first morning, I did not make it out the door, as the village was covered by fog.  Not knowing how long it would take beforehand, I also reached the summit for sunset late.  Luckily, I decided to wake up for sunrise again on my second (and final) morning and was treated to clear skies, and therefore my last view of the Himalayas, shining in the distance as the sun’s rays reflected off its snow-covered face.

What happens when you make it late to sunset,
Thani mai, Bandipur 

Better prepared at sunsise.
Thani mai, Bandipur

My last view of the Himalayas.
Thani mai, Bandipur

Relaxed, and truly unwound, I was ready to take on the final leg of my journey back to Kathmandu, and very pleased with myself that I managed to find such a nice pit stop.

My gracious host and his mother