Varanasi: a mystical, entrancing city that you just cannot leave, try as you may

23 - 29 August

I had apprehensions coming to Varanasi, because as such a popular tourist place, I feared it being captured by all the same pitfalls of the other cities I had seen, which were touted as “must sees”.  However, the feedback I had received from fellow travelers, is that Varanasi really should not be missed, and provided as authentic an Indian experience as you will get.

I was in India to get Indian experiences, and because of my freed up time missing out on Kashmir, I had no reason not to.  I also needed to go through Varanasi to get to Kathmandu in Nepal.  Finally, I had some unfinished business with the post office from Lucknow, and Varanasi was the last major city before I left India for Nepal.

Daily life in the city is framed around the Ganges.  Ceremonies takes place every day as the sun rises and sets over the sacred river with devotees praising, and giving thanks, to the Ganges in the hope that her well wishes will translate into good fortune.

The Ganga (Ganges), Varanasi 

Dipping in the Ganga.
This time I wasn't taking the risk.
Varanasi

Getting to the morning aarti (ceremony) was easy, because it takes place before sunrise, and only the most dedicated of tourists will get up before day break to watch the ceremony that begins at 5am.  Finding a place to watch therefore was no problem.  Evening aarti however is a whole different story.  Starting at about 7pm, I thought I would get there at 6:30pm and find a good spot, with time to spare.  

The winding streets of Varanasi got the better of me, and I ended up getting a little lost and found my way to the Dashashwamedh ghat (ghats are flights of steps leading down to the river) at about 6:45pm, and could not get close to the ghat, let alone the ceremony.  Lesson learnt, I vowed to come back the next evening earlier.

Morning aarti, Varanasi

Assi Ghat at 5:30am, Varanasi

The next day I had joined a walking tour through Varanasi, which promised to end at the evening aarti.  While the walking tour progressed through the city, I glanced at my watch and saw it was 6:30pm already and we were still some way from the ghat, and I knew that tonight would not be the night to see the aarti (again).  I mentioned to the guide that we were already late, but he believed that we should be fine.  Ok, I trust you (not).  Imagine my surprise (there was no surprise) when we got to the ghat, just before 7pm, and – like a night before – there was no way of us getting close.  The guide did somewhat make up for his poor judgement by taking is to another ghat, where they had an aarti too, and we were assured that the two ceremonies were the same.  The ceremony at the Dashashwamedh ghat though is famed to have the evening aarti, so unsatisfied, I resolved to make sure I see the ceremony the following evening.

Plan B aarti ceremony, Varanasi

The following afternoon I got the Dashashwamedh ghat at 5:30pm and secured my seat on the steps, with a full unobstructed view.  What could go wrong?  Well, owing to being in India at the backend of its monsoon, the Ganges river had flooded its banks owing to the large amount of rain it had received.  The famous boat rides on the Ganges to watch sunrise/sunset had been ceased by the authorities, because the current was too strong. 

I knew that this meant that the aartis were smaller than usual, as the area in front of the river was underwater.  However, what I did not count on – and was unable to ascertain by being so far away in the previous two nights – is that they have actually moved the ceremony to the balcony of a building above the ghat.  So, I had sat on the steps for over an hour, watching these get packed to the brim, only to realise when the ceremony started, that I would not be able to see a thing.  I still cannot fathom why they would: 1) not tell everyone sitting on the steps that they would be unable to see a damn thing; and 2) that everyone continued to sit on the steps, staring out blankly over the dark river, while a ceremony proceeded unsighted to them

All the people who would not watch the ceremony,
Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi

They even had an usher,
to make sure everyone was sat down orderly,
while looking out to nothing

I had though learnt a while ago already that trying to understand why things happen the way they do here is futile.  I resigned myself to the fact that I had already seen two ceremonies, and I had tried three times to see this one – it just was not meant to be.

Besides, I had more pressing items to take care of – which not even the mighty Ganges gods could overcome – sending a parcel via the Indian postal service.

New box acquired,
ready to face the Indian postal service
once gain

Learning from my previous experience in Lucknow, I had sourced a solid box with decent structural integrity, obtained the details of the biggest, mainest post office in the city, and headed straight there.  

Expecting the worst (and a new blog entry to come out of it), I could not believe that the people behind the counter were helpful, AND knew what documentation needed to completed.  I was shell-shocked to walk out of the building, having sent off the parcel in just under 45 minutes.

What was even more surprising is that it only took six weeks for the parcel to actually arrive in South Africa, contents all inside #smallmiracles.

When I left Varanasi on the bus to the Indian border, on-route to Nepal, I felt like I would miss the city.  There is nothing beautiful about the city.  In typical Indian style, it is dirty, there are stray animals around (and animal poop), and everywhere you turn someone is trying to sell you something: be it a tour through the city, some trinket or souvenir, or a blessing in return for a donation.  Being in a city where death is part of daily rituals, whether it is a funeral procession moving down the narrow streets, or burning bodies, and depositing the ashes into the Ganges, should not be attractive.

One of the 'hidden' ghats around the city,
Varanasi

However, there is something indescribable about the place that makes it charming.  The city has developed around itself, and therefore getting lost in the winding streets is commonplace and somehow charming.  With a little exploring you can find yourself in the quiet streets – away from the tourists, touts and markets – where you experience just local life.  Countless little crevasses and alleys that reveal hidden ghats that give you tremendous views of the Ganges, where you can sit an experience undisturbed.

It helped that I moved from outside the city into the main centre, and found a hostel with a great atmosphere and some really interesting and fun people to hang around with.  Also, and surely a highlight of my stay in Varanasi was by the time I left, the waters had subsided enough to reveal the full ghat and I managed to attend one final sunrise aarti, which was followed by a free yoga session, that is attended by all members of the local community.

Morning yoga with the Varanasi local community,
Assi Ghat, Varanasi

I am not sure what it is, I cannot describe it, but there is a magical draw.  Something that made me extend my stay from 3 to 7 days there, and left me longing to come back as soon as my bus (which was supposed to leave at 7am, but didn’t exist, so left at 9am) rolled out of the station.  I wish I could be more helpful, but really you need to just visit and experience it for yourself. 

Sunset from my hostel rooftop,
Varanasi