Amritsar: amazing people, sights, and food, but I think I may have been molested.

15 - 17 June

Amritsar is located in the state of Punjab, which is the only state in India that is predominately Sikh.  They have a unique culture and food, and I must say that while Indians are generally very generous and hospitable, the Sikhs really are so friendly, welcoming and gracious.  Many people, in my subsequent travels confirmed that the Sikhs are known for their outward happiness and hospitality.  The food, while outwardly Indian, in Amritsar is richer in cream, butter, and milk, which gives it its own unique taste.  I found a restaurant which I frequented many times over the next few days, so that I was recognised by the owner, and although he could not speak a word of English, he always greeted me with a wide smile. 

My 'local' breakfast hangout, Amritsar

The standard breakfast dish in India is a paratha.  This is a dough filled with either potatoe, cauliflower, cheese, or a mix of vegetables, and served with pickle (achar) and curd.  In Amritsar, they have kulcha, and at my local, a kulcha cost 25 rupees (R5), and was a far better version of a paratha, served with a big dollop of butter, chickpeas and a salsa on the side.  So, so good, although my heart may disagree otherwise.

Kulcha at my local.  Note the butter.

The heat in Amritsar was truly something, and peaked at 47.  So, touring was done in the early morning or late evening.  I only had two days really, and apart from walking around, and exploring the city, the highlight of Amritsar is undoubtedly the Golden Temple.  Set in the centre of the city, and surrounded by smaller temples, it is an enormous precinct filled with locals, pilgrims, and travellers.  Some come to bask it the architectural wonder, others to bathe in the holy waters, and many to pray, and be blessed in the temple, which lies in the centre of the compound, and is literally all made of gold.  At night, the whole place is lit up, and its truly something to behold.

Bathing in the Golden Temple's water

Golden Temple at night

The whole space is large enough not to feel crowded by the masses of who come to visit, and I thought I would beat the crowd, by going to the temple during the India vs Pakistan cricket world cup game.  Apparently, however, people in India do not care that much about cricket (or at least the ones visiting the Golden Temple) and the place was full.  Still, the crowds are very manageable, until one tries too get into the actual Golden Temple.

To gain access into the central Golden Temple, you stand in a long, winding queue.  Not too bad, I thought.  I have stood in queues before, and this one seemed to be moving along.  However, what it was moving to was going to be a close encounter of the Indian kind, which would make sleeping on the floor on a crowded train seem like a 5-star hotel stay.

The queue was simply funneling hundreds of people into the narrow entrance of the beginning of the queue from hell to enter the Golden Temple (I think this is its actual name, but cannot be sure, as it was in Hindi).

Golden Temple bridge from hell, lovely lit at night

The Golden Temple is situated in the middle of a body of water, and there is one bridge that goes to its entrance.  Here, on this bridge, there are no rules, no order, and it's every person for himself, as everyone squeezes and pushes to get to the front.  

Seemingly, the only way to get ahead is to find a child.  A crying child is even better.  Having an old person may look like a good idea, but will only get you so far.  The winner really is a single mother, with two young crying children.  That seemingly is the ticket to the express queue.  Otherwise, for those of us unlucky enough to not have a crying child nearby, you get to learn just how lowly Indians regard personal space.  It is a funny thing that people who are coming to pray, seemingly trying to be more holy, at one of their most sacred sites, are so poorly behaved (although not really surprising, but still).

For the most part, over the 90 minute ordeal, I held my own, and my space in the herd remained steadfast.  An old lady tried to push past me, and I was having none of it.  Stand back old lady, I said (with my eyes).  She seemed to understand me, but only after one last ditch effort to get through by pinching my arms.  Bitch.  

My breaking point though, was when I was almost at the end.  I could finally see the guards controlling how many people could enter the actual temple, when an older, fatter man had obviously pushed his way from the back.  He however encountered the unmovable Ryan.  Stand back fatty, I said (again, with my eyes).  He did not however seem to understand me, and engaged in a prolonged emotional assault by sticking his fat, sweaty, swollen gut into my back.  It almost worked, but I persevered.

Inside, the temple is nice, but I was so emotionally drained after the queue from hell, I raced through it.  I mean, after all, it is just a temple.  Picture, picture, click, click, and if you not praying, there is not much else to do.

The whole tour of the temple had taken some time, and at 9pm, I was worried that the shoe counter, where I had left my shoes before entering the temple precinct, would be closing soon (another reason for my rushing through the temple).  I however had one more stop, a must-see at the Golden Temple, at that was the community kitchen. 

100,000 people for dinner?

I am told that the kitchen serves over 100,000 free meals to people, every day, and is open 24/7.  It is financed though donations, and run by volunteers.  Owing to my panic about the closing shoe counter, I rushed through this too, but at a pace that was really controlled by the crowds around me.  This really was an experience though, and very impressive how efficiently, and orderly the whole process unfolds.

No time for tables and chairs

You follow the herd by getting a plate, and a bowl, then some juice.  When the dining hall has space, it is opened to the next group of people, who find a place in one of the rows of mats on the floors.   When you sit, volunteers are going up and down the rows serving porridge, dal, and chipathi (roti) to you.  To get porridge or dal, you lift up your plate, to get a chipathi you catch one that is being dropped from a basket.  You can sit as long as you like, and eat as much as you like, and for mass produced food, it was not half bad.  I however wolfed down my meal, and rushed over to the shoe counter, but there was no need. There were many volunteers waiting at the counters, ready to help you out.